They talk about the ups and downs of the economy, the hurricane that blew through and slowed everything down for a while and the bouts of cancer that each of them dealt with. Through it all, and with the support of the community, they managed to transform what was once a modest little Italian joint into a cozy spot with white tablecloths and a well-stocked bar.

The way he grows his trees, gathers his apples and makes his cider recalls the vital role that the apple once played in American life, when it was known as “the drink of patriots.”