Riding the fiaker in Vienna.
Although not mentioned by the guide, the town was home for Hitler’s family during his youth. While the town’s Nazi past is now carefully masked, a young high school student in the 1990s uncovered details of virulent anti-Semitism and Nazi sympathies here during the war. After broadcast on the 60 Minutes program, the student found herself shunned by the people and eventually left town.
There is something truly relaxing as you sit on the balcony and watch the landscape drift by. A friendly bubble seem to surround you: bikers waving from the shore, kayakers paddling by, ferries crisscrossing between small picturesque villages. (In some river sections no bridge can be built lest they lose their UNESCO designation.) Now and then our ship must negotiate river locks. These locks reduce the river’s natural gradient and adjust its flow rate to aid navigation. However, to enter each lock, wait for the water level to rise and opening/closing the gates takes time, thus our progress is rather slow. But who cares? Watching the river traffic and chatting with fellow travelers from around the world kept us pleasantly occupied.
Regensburg
After another night of slow cruising we arrived at the last city on the navigable section of the Danube. From here on the river is too narrow and winding for commercial crafts.
Regensburg’s development was helped by two factors throughout its history. First, back in the 12th century a stone bridge was built across the river providing the only reliable crossing point for commerce and military use for many miles. Then in the 20th century the town miraculously escaped major damage during the war. This makes Regensburg the best preserved medieval town in Germany. Our local guide took us past the old bridge, its cathedral, the old town hall and the Golden Tower during our enjoyable walk. The Golden Tower, like those in many Italian towns, is one example of high towers built by rich merchants to show off their wealth, trying to outdo each other. On the way back to our ship, we noted another important sight. The old Sausage Kitchen is located near the stone bridge. Ever since it was feeding the bridge builders in the 12th century, it’s remained in business as the oldest restaurant in the world.
The Danube Canal and Nuremberg
The canal, a 1,200-year-old dream of European rulers, connects the Rhine and Danube river systems, providing water connection from the North Sea to the Black Sea. Cutting across the continental divide required the construction of 16 locks for the 106-mile-long canal. Since its completion in 1992 it’s been a great success, both for tourism and commerce.
Cruising through the canal, we arrived in the famed city of Nuremberg early morning. The beautiful city was almost completely destroyed in the war, but meticulously rebuilt afterward. The rebuilt old walls, complete with gates and towers, surround the old town. We enjoyed walking the ancient streets around the Schoner Brunnen — beautiful fountain — looking for Lebkuchen, a tasty local pastry that is high on the tourists’ list. Other sites that we visited on a previous trip are the World War II Documentation Center and the Palace of Justice, the site of postwar tribunals. The tour guides refer to these sites as “Obligations to the Past,” suggesting the uneasy way contemporary Germans coexist with their collective past.
Once back on the ship, we enjoyed the last dinner and the last chat with our friends before tackling the challenging packing chores. Sadly, the great trip has come to an end, becoming just another pleasant memory to relish in the future. Hungary, Austria, Germany … Auf Wiedersehen.
Very nice, but not a word about the House of Almassy. Have to get Joe of Ulster Park to write that one!!