Without that river, the hotel would be a merry gathering place indeed; but being nestled up against the majestic Hudson, whose mutable mood ranges from crystal blue to emerald green to soulful brown, with the Catskills beyond, makes it priceless. Although some Valley venues overlook the river, few are so intimate with it. It’s the only full-service hotel that close, in fact, said James. From that first sip of French-press coffee on the patio at brunch as you gaze at the murky morning river to an evening kir made from local cassis and bubbly as the sun sets splendidly on it, the river raises the pleasure factor a few notches.
While the trains have annoyed some visitors, to me their sound and fury evoke the traveler’s joy of being in another place and time, and so are part of the appeal of this unique place.
But the Rhinecliff’s soul also carries over to off-site locales, as the last couple years it has been busily catering off-site events as well, in barns, under tents, at Montgomery Place and some venues in the Catskills.
While all these events keep the hotel hopping, food at the on-site restaurant is a priority. James told me that his goal for the next five years is to put major efforts into refining the restaurant, while continuing to keep busy with the event catering. The menus for the restaurant and catering share some overlaps – although event fare is generally more formal.
“Our style is properly cooked, simple, no-nonsense local food,” said James. “We believe in anti-chefdom,” he added with a grin. Although James began his career as a chef and still spends lots of time in the kitchen, and the Rhinecliff has surely offered many a creative dish since its reopening, it’s all about that “no-nonsense” approach.
The current dinner menu is anything but boring, however, with starters like Truffled Goat Cheese Toast with red onion marmalade and arugula ($6) or Crispy Pork Belly with fava beans, red onion and Pecorino cheese ($8). Favorite entrées include the “Meiller Farms Burger” with all the fixin’s plus rosemary aïoli ($13), or the Roasted Half Chicken with sautéed mushrooms, whipped potatoes and pickled ramps ($17). Desserts include an award-winning Sticky Toffee Pudding with ice cream and hot toffee sauce ($7) and a Sarsaparilla Crème Brûlée ($6). Some of the local purveyors include the Sweet Girl Brownie Company, Migliorelli Farm, Coach Farm, Tuthilltown Distillery and Clinton Vineyards.
Sunday jazz brunch is a delightful event with sparkling live acts like Blue Gardenia, along with dishes from a gravlax plate ($12.95) to egg dishes to sandwiches to my favorite, the English Breakfast ($14.95), with fried eggs, potatoes, beans, blood pudding, English bacon, sausage, mushrooms, roasted tomato, fried bread and HP sauce. Of course all manner of brunchy drinks are on hand to wash it all down, from a pot of tea (“real, from a leaf,” says the menu) to fizzy Prosecco.
“We didn’t want it to be stuffy or pretentious,” said James, “and we finally found the formula that seems to work.” James’s personality drives the hotel: not loud or overbearing but quietly witty and tongue-in-cheek, known now and then to heckle speakers gently with his charming British accent. On the rather rare occasion that there is an unfounded negative review of the accommodations on Tripadvisor.com, he responds to each one at length in a congenial, ever-so-diplomatic and rather hilarious fashion. Brother David is a software designer in Manhattan by day, but fixes things around the place, per James, and is on the scene as well whenever he is able. The cordial nature of the Brothers Chapman ensures that most guests will have a great time.
The restaurant serves a cooked breakfast to guests and visitors, and is open every night for dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. Weekend brunch runs from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., and includes live jazz on Sundays. Find the Rhinecliff at 4 Grinnell Street; at the hamlet’s stop sign, just head towards the river and you’ll find it on your left. Or reach the Rhinecliff at (845) 876-0590 or www.therhinecliff.com.
Read more about local cuisine and learn about new restaurants on Ulster Publishing’s DineHudsonValley.com or HudsonValleyAlmanacWeekly.com.
